Gearbox Gold Download Cracked Internet

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I was at the unfortunate position this morning to be informed by my mechanic that upper housing of the gearbox in my Golf 4 TDI110 has cracked and it was leaking oil. Apparently this was caused by the shock of a crash i had 4 months ago. Although there was no physical contact on the gearbox at the time of the crash, the damage indicated that a large force has been applied momentarily, causing a crack on the top of the gearbox. The crack is only 1-2mm thick, but starts from the gearbox cover and extends to 3-4 inches throughout the length.My mechanic, highly suggests to attempt to apply a special metal glue, to seal the crack, before proceeding to order another gearbox (which i cannot afford at this time).What say you?

Can a damage like this be sealed with such a glue? (chemical glue: combining two liquids, forming a special bond)Has anyone had any experience with metal glues?any help would be appreciated.thank you. Quote:If you buy only the transmission case, then you'll have to pay someone to tear down and rebuild the internal parts into the new case.This operation still wouldn't be that bad. Since the gear stacks wouldn't have to be torn down, the guy should be able to remove just the complete shafts and insert into the new gearbox.I also like the option of welding the crack shut.

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A good TIG or heliarc should do the trick, provided the crack is limited and won't change any internal dimensions that would cause something else to end up out of alignment and wear quickly. Quote.anyway the mechanic applied the epoxy, and the leaking decreased, but theres still oil drops.As was mentioned already in another post, cleanliness is CRITICAL for successful repair using epoxy (which I have done several times myself on various engine and transmission components). When you get a crack in an aluminum housing, typically the exposed metal in the crack is very rough, and if all of the gear oil wasn't cleaned out of that area prior to application of the epoxy, it could explain your continued leak.I wouldn't give up on the epoxy idea just yet.

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Doing this repair correctly may require draining the oil out, removing the old epoxy, cleaning the area with a spray-solvent (over here in the states, something like brakleen) and then drying with clean compressed air-if it's in a place where residual oil from inside the case could seep back into the crack, I'd use a quick-set (5 minute) exoxy such that it can be applied into the crack and start to set up before any oil gets back into the area. After the repair (allowing time for epoxy to set up), it may be a good idea to refill the gearbox with oil, run the car in gear on the hoist, and drain the oil out, in order to flush out any solvent which may have entered the box. Then refill with the proper lubricant.This approach eliminates the need to remove the transmission from the car which should save a considerable amound of labor. Redmontjp youve been great help.i fially found a VW mechanic who knows his business well and is not a lying bastard like the stealership. He removed the old epoxy, cleaned the crack with solvent (hehe after my instuctions) and then he applied some new orange epoxy which was also elastic, filled up the crack, filed the epoxy/crack spikes, and put the cover back on and theres no leacking despite the hard driving ive been doing during the last two weeks (really hot conditions in cyprus, 40 celcius) and now its fine.he couldnt guarantee how much it would last.

Maybe 5 days, 5 weeks, or 5 years. At least he didnt brag telling me this is going to last forever.when it breaks down again, i could be considering a 2nd hand 6spd gearbox, from the PD130. How much do you think one of those costs? Take it from me, DON'T WELD IT.

I'm an aluminum welder by trade and run my own aluminum fab shop.The biggest problem with welding it is that aluminum must be CLEAN to weld. There is no way to get the oil residue out of the crack. It seems to impregnate right into the aluminum itself. Sometimes with a TIG welder you can 'float' the dirt to the surface of the weld puddle but it requires alot of heat and will probably warp the case in some way. Also, aluminum TIG welding requires high frequency to start the arc. I wouldn't go any where near my car with high frequency, there is a high probability of frying the electronics.If you try to use MIG you most likely won't get a good seal due to porosity and it will continue to leak.Your best bet is to use an epoxy or get another case.